This is it! I have decided to go with this dress design (from The Cut of Women's Clothes) and this fabric. The pink fabric I've had in my stash forever, so I will be glad to finally use it. It is synthetic and while I would love to buy real silk, I would much rather use this fabric since it's been sitting in my closet for so long. :)
pink/yellow irridescent taffeta and embroidered/beaded ivory satin
1870s pink lilac irridescent silk ball gown
bustle in blue and white seersucker - pattern from Corsets and Crinolines
Corset and bodice lining in pink striped cotton chintz
Got my new Ageless Patterns today! Hooray! I furiously cut them all out in one hour and am excited to start making some of them. Will wait til we return from our beach vacation. I will update this blog as I make the patterns with comments, tips and pictures of finished pieces.
I just HAD to post this blog site because it is AWESOME!!! Especially if you are looking to reproduce a costume from an historical film! The archives have everthing listed plus lots of great stills from the movies - recent and old. I just LOVE the old Pride and Prejudice and there it is! Hooray for a wonderful site!
As I am thinking about this upcoming ball and trying to design a dress, I remember a story I read that has always stuck with me. The Necklace by Guy de Maupassant! It is a wonderful story about a foolish young girl who lets pride get in the way of common sense and learns her lesson a little too late in life.
As with most well-written short stories, it has such an incredible lesson and one so easily learned. If you have never read it, or if you don't remember it well, take a few minutes to read it now. I think you will be very surprised by the end.
Just thought I'd keep a list of dance societies and etiquette pages for quick reference. I do not support any of these in particular nor to I guarantee any of the "advice" given in them is always historically documented. I'll do my best to include those that are.
I'll add to this list as I find more that look interesting.
This was one of my original inspirations for a ball gown - of course the train would have to be bustled for dancing. Maybe that is just too impractical. I like the look of it!
ROYAL PURPLES
The colors didn't really show correctly with the flash, but what I have in mind is a royal purple cotton velevet for the bodice and the train/bustle lined in gold dupioni silk (yes, I know the dupioni is not really period correct - neither would "cotton" velvet for a ball), and possibly the purple and gold brocade for the inset and lower skirt.
THOUGHTS: I have just always felt that deep colors are so severe - they don't seem "fun" to me for dancing. Though very, very pretty. I'm a little afraid of using all dark colors for this dress. I always think of something more light and vibrant for a ball.
Well, I got the "spirit" to sew last night after the kids went to bed. Even though I swore I would go to bed at 10pm, I ended up staying up til 1am! But . . . I got a set of infant underthings (patterns by Elizabeth Stewart Clark) completed for Micky.
* diapers * drawers * open shirt * cap * night dress
MATERIALS:
I used birdseye diaper cloth for the diapers, pre pin-tucked 100% cotton lawn for the rest and 100% cotton open worked lace for trim on the bonnet.
CONSTRUCTION:
Since this was being done between 10pm and 1am, I used the machine for everything. Though these would be very easy and very fun to do by hand!
DIAPER
back view of diaper I was very skeptical about the diaper (triangle) because it seems soooo huge! But when I tried it on Micky (over a real diaper) this morning, it did seem to fit. I had to wrap the side ends across the front and tie them in a little knot at the back. That's not how the directions explained it - they said all three corners should basically come together in the front and tie with cotton tapes - I don't know who that would fit other than an ADULT, so I just stuck with my method - worked fine.
OPEN SHIRT
openshirt
The open shirt also seemed a bit big in the neck area, but I guess if he had a light stay on or a bodiced petticoat that was more fitted then the neck and back flaps would fall over that to protect it. Also, the shirt and drawers alone would be comfortable on a hot day.
DRAWERSdrawers Loved the drawers! They are probably a bit long, but will do if I don't have a chance to add a few more tucks.
CAP
And look at this little cap - it is ADORABLE and so easy to make! I plan to make a few more - serviceable and fancy. This would be a great project to hand sew during an event. Though if I have the kids, I never have my hands free to do any sewing.
(This picture is from the website and not of my actual pair - my pair was an almost black "midnight blue")
I felt I needed to comment here on Robert Land Shoes because I have recently had several disappointments with them. I bought an absolutely stunning pair of his red/black side lacing boots - but after the first day of wearing the stitching ripped open in the side. I returned them asking for a replacement but was simply sent a "repaired" pair. Given the fact that I had paid full price for these boots and that they clearly were barely worn I felt that I should have been given a replacement. Well, I didn't want to continue to complain, so I accepted them.
Now . . . months later, I decided to give Robert Land a second chance because I continue to hear good things about them. So, I bought the blue and black side lacing and the American walking shoe. Wanted to make sure I bought the correct size, I completed the sizing worksheet and sent it to Robert Land. He suggested a 7-1/2 so that's what I ordered.
Unfortunately, I was greatly disappointed once again. The blue and black boot that looked bright blue and black on the web site was actually such a dark blue I first thought it was black! The American walking boot was also constructed in such a way that the space between the instep and the ankle was so baggy it actually formed a sort of a bubble when wearing the boot and was uncomfortable because it was so loose. Continuing my disappointment, the sole of both styles of boot protrude about 1/4 inch beyond the toe which both looks strange and would probably cause me to trip wearing them. And the 7-1/2 was waaayyy too big! I needed to go down at least a half size.
To add insult to injury in all of this, Robert Land actually draws from a Canadian bank (I know he has both a NY and Canadian address) but the payment was in American dollars. When I paid via PayPal, the Canadian bank that drew the payment caused my credit card company to charge me a foreign exchange fee of $9. This was both unexpected and not clearly outlined (that I remember) on their page.
So . . . I have sent the two pair of shoes back expecting a refund for the blue pair and a new pair of the American walking boot IF the toe and "baggy" ankle problem can be solved. I am hoping I will eventually be happy about this whole transaction . . .
I wish I had taken pictures of the boots before I sent them back! I was so frustrated I didn't think about it. :(
An interesting read transcribed from Needlework Magazine, July 1917
To the hungry picnicker who looks forward to lunch-time, when with keen appetite freshened by the outdoor air, there will be spread a variety of food, novelties are eagerly sought after. This has grown to be almost a necessity, for even an out-of-door spread palls if the same things are seen.
There are staple articles of food that are a necessity and which with few variations can be acceptably served, but they must be intermixed with appetizing foods and drinks that will give to the picnic a distinctive air.
The lunch-basket need not be an expensive one. Any kind of a receptacle that will open so that the contents can be easily removed is advisable for this purpose. A raffia basket with split cover that falls back on raffia hinges is practical for use such as this.
The packing is of as much importance as the contents, for wrongly placed, the heavy things are apt to mush the dainties, thus making an unsightly showing of food for the table. Put the heavy things at the bottom and the lighter ones on top; try and take as many things as possible that can be thrown away to save space for flowers and ferns that may be plucked to be carried home.
The things essential are a thermos-bottle that will keep hot drinks warm and cold ones cool: this should be one of the first items on the list. Paper napkins should be patriotic in design for July. Drinking-cups should be of paper and can be purchased at such a small sum that individual ones can be supplied within the means of the medium-sized purse. In addition to those, paper plates and a paper tablecloth are much more advisable than china and linen, while individual campers’ outfits in their little leather cases can be purchased reasonably and are almost indispensable for occasions like this.
Sandwiches made from bread cut very thin and the crust trimmed can be filled with different ingredients. To keep them moist one should wrap them in paraffin-paper, putting two sandwiches, each one different, in each package.
PIMENTO FILLING
1 small can pimentos, 1 head of celery, 6 sweet pickles
4 hard boiled eggs, Boiled Dressing (see below)
Chop first four items together very finely. Moisten with Boiled Dressing just enough to hold together, thin dressing with a little cream if needed. Spread the mixture between slices of buttered bread.
Beat the eggs until thick and creamy. Place all other ingredients into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Turn down heat to simmer and add eggs slowly, beating well the whole time. Cook until thickened and add seasoning to taste. Cool and use as base for fillings.
HICKORY-NUT SANDWICHES
1 cup finely chopped Hickory Nuts
2 cups finely chopped Apples
Mayonnaise, Celery or Celery Seed
Mix together Hickory Nuts and Apples with as much Mayonnaise as needed to bind. Add finely chopped Celery or Celery Seed if desired.
EGYPTIAN SANDWICHES
4 ripe medium sized tomatoes, peeled and finely diced
1 or 2 cucumbers, peeled and finely diced
1/8 cup of Onion, finely diced 1/8 cup fresh Parsley, finely chopped (or amount to taste)
Salt, Vinegar, Oil, Lettuce Leafs
Combine all ingredients more or less according to taste. Mix well and place on lettuce leaf between slices of bread.
Place lettuce leafs on bread, layer over this slices of hard boiled eggs. Mix cheese with a enough mayonnaise to bind. Spread this mixture over eggs. Sardines and cracker sandwiches are also very good with this filling for a picnic-lunch.
PICNIC-CAKES
1 cup Sugar, 1/2 cup Butter, 2 Egg Yolks
1 Egg White, 1/2 cup Sweet Milk, 2 cups Flour
2 teaspoons Baking-Powder, 1 teaspoon Vanilla
Cream sugar and butter together. Add egg yolks and egg white and milk, stir until well mixed. Sift flour and baking-powder together and add to egg mixture with vanilla. Beat until batter is smooth. Bake in oven in small cake pans until done. Cover with a white frosting topped with drizzles of chocolate.
PUZZLE TURNOVERS
Pastry for Pie, 1 cup Thick Sour Milk (possibly sour cream?)
1 cup Sugar, 1 cup Raisins, chopped 1 Egg, well beaten
Salt, Cinnamon, Nutmeg
Beat together all ingredients except pastry, until well blended. Season with salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg to taste. Roll out pastry into squares, putting a tablespoon of filling in the center, fold pastry over the filling and mark into place with a fork. Make slits in the top so that the steam may escape. Bake until done.
ENGLISH-WALNUT PIE
2 Egg Yolks, 1/2 cup Sugar, 1 tablespoon Lemon Juice
Grated Rind of 1 Orange
1/2 cup English Walnuts, finely chopped
Pie Shell
Beat together sugar and egg yolks to a cream. Add all other ingredients except pie shell, and place in a saucepan. Cook until it thickens, and then pour into pie shell. Bake until done, and when brown you may cover with a meringue in which are stirred walnut pieces.
NUT CAKES
1 pound Flour, 1 pound Powdered Sugar
1/2 Nutmeg, grated 1 tablespoon Cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon each; Mace and Ground Cloves
2 level tablespoons Baking-Powder, Pinch of Salt
5 Eggs beaten well, Grated Peel of 1 Lemon, 1/2 cup Citron chopped fine
Sift together flour and powdered sugar. All all other ingredients, and stir until well mixed and a stiff dough forms. Shape into balls, and bake in a hot oven until done. Coat or drizzle with maple frosting if desired.
RASPBERRY CORDIAL
To each quart of raspberries add a pound of loaf-sugar. (You may use Turbinado Sugar as a substitute) Mash the raspberries and mix in the sugar. Let the raspberries and sugar set until the next day, keeping them well covered. Place the raspberries and sugar in a thin muslin bag and squeeze out the juice by hand into a bowl. To every pint of juice add a pint of water, plain or carbonated. Chill well before drinking.
FROZEN TEA
1/2 cup cold, strong, Green Tea, 1 pint Rich Cream
Juice of 1/2 Lemon, Sugar to taste
Mix together all ingredients, adding sugar to sweeten to taste. Freeze in container or thermos-bottle. This can be kept indefinitely in a thermos-bottle.
TEA JULEP
1 quart Boiling Water, 1/4 pound Oolong Black Tea
1 pound Powdered Sugar, Juice of 6 Lemons
Grated Rind of 2 Lemons, 2 Cinnamon Sticks
Optional:
1 cup Pineapple, chopped
1 quart fresh Strawberries (sliced and stems removed)
4 or 5 sprigs Fresh Mint
Pour boiling water over tea leaves and let steep for five minutes. Strain tea leaves from tea and add sugar, lemon juice, lemon rind, and cinnamon sticks. Add other optional ingredients if desired. Allow mixture to cool. Strain. Serve over crushed ice, adding water to dilute to taste.
This is ONE of the dresses of my dreams! I know it's not very practical and probably would be an idiodic thing to wear to a reenactment (and not appropriate either) but I REALLY REALLY want to make it! I'm thinking of a thick blue silk satin with cotton voile undersleeeves (attached I think). With self fabric adornments. I also really like the hair style the model has. Would be fun to have a dress like this do wear for late war "indoor" impressions.
Also want to try this one for Renton (the blue tunic). I LOVE it! And Renton really misses his "skirts." I'm thinking a blue summer weight wool or even a chintz or linen(though I don't see references to linen much in this period).
pink/yellow irridescent taffeta and embroidered/beaded ivory satin
1870s pink lilac irridescent silk ball gown
bustle in blue and white seersucker - pattern from Corsets and Crinolines
1869 3 Baby Bibs
1868 Suit for Boy 8-10 Yrs
